Be There Shortly

Adventures of a five foot traveler.

Lima

I sit here writing this at the Lima airport after making the classic mistake of confusing “aceituna” with “atun”, and therefore getting a frightening surprise upon unwrapping my sandwich after security: an olive sandwich.* Needless to say, I splurged on an entirely new sandwich here at the gate and will avoid all foods with aceituna in the future. Lesson learned.

The view from our Airbnb in Miraflores
Is this Lima? Or Santa Monica?

But enough about my translation mistakes (although there have been a few) and more about Lima. Lima is massive. There are more than 8 million people living here, which means that at any given moment cars are zooming by while pedestrians dot the sidewalks (and sometimes scarily stand in the middle of highways hawking ice creams and sodas). We stayed in the neighborhood of Miraflores, a rather affluent/touristy area along the coast that honestly is almost indistinguishable from Santa Monica. 

View from my morning runs.
Peru is really into their garlic, and Lima is really into their naked paintings/statues
Dom is happiest with an empanada in hand

Staying in this area enabled me to go on two beautiful morning runs along the cliff, but beyond that I found the area pleasant but dull. I did enjoy John F. Kennedy Park, which is home to dozens of cats (Amanda’s dream park), appreciated the empanada cart that treated us to our first empanada of this trip and thoroughly enjoyed mounds of garlic on my fish at the same dinner Dom was reunited with aji de gallina, but I was happy to explore other parts of Lima during the majority of our time.

All of this is mine…
Making new friends.

We did in fact make our way back onto the Metropolitano bus on Wednesday (this time with all our belongings in tow!) to catch our walking tour of downtown Lima. As has been my experience in other South American cities, the Plaza de Armas is always one of my favorite places. Much of the historical center was pedestrianized and shops and businesses of all sorts lined the streets. Our tour guide (“just call me Elvis”) guided us around the center conversely lamenting about Peru’s lack of trains (“It’s because we were colonized by the Spanish and not the English. The English always built trains.”) but also exclaiming that by 2028 Lima will have the best public transportation of any South American city. I do hope this is true, as the congestion is palpable and nearly every bus we saw that passed us was bursting with commuters.

(Side note: there doesn’t seem to be any centralized bus system, but instead we saw many different buses weaving in and out of traffic. The decentralization is so bad that google maps doesn’t even offer any directions via public transit.)

La Plaza de Armas
Pretty proud of this shot
Fun fact: the closed balconies were built during the colonial period and the open ones during the republican period
Lunch after our walking tour was so great. Less than three dollars for ceviche, the magical kernel things next to the ceviche, and fried fish and rice.

Back in Miraflores, we escaped the city vibes on a visit to Huaca Pucllana. Tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood lies the remains of Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan flat pyramid that only began excavation in the 1970s and is in fact still undergoing further excavation today. As our tour guide shared stories of the ancient rituals of sacrificing women between the ages of 10 – 25, I distracted myself by marveling at these massive remains.

Ruins in the middle of Miraflores
Practicing that portrait mode

On our final night in Lima we walked along the cliffs to Barranco, a bohemian/hipster district that borders Miraflores. Crossing the Puente de Suspiros just after dusk transported us into an enchanted world. Artisans lined the cobblestone streets while buskers serenaded the passerbys. After some meandering we made our way to a fantastic little burrito shop and enjoyed Peruvian beer and massive burritos.

In the majestic Barranco
Life is good

All in all, despite the phone incident, Lima felt like a good start to our travels. It was different but navigable, bustling but manageable. Our flight to Arequipa departs in an hour, so I best make a run to the bathroom before time runs out! More from me soon.

*Full disclosure: I don’t know if this is a classic mistake, but one can easily see how I made it ?

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7 Comments

  1. Amanda Schalk December 7, 2018

    What’s wrong with an olive sandwich??? And thumbs up for the garlic and a park full of cats!

  2. Beth Dubowe-Lawrence December 7, 2018

    Life is good! Thanks for the update, sounds like a very worthwhile stop.

  3. Ron December 7, 2018

    The Barranco area is your Uncle Jeff’s favorite place on earth. Last trip, I left him there for two days as he wandered amongst the artists.

    How was the trip to the airport? For us, worst traffic ever except maybe for Beijing.

    Looks like things are going well. I was a little worried about the Airbnb but it sounds like that is working out.

    • rmlawrence7 December 8, 2018 — Post Author

      I LOVED Barranco! I was bummed we waited until our last night to go there, as that probably was my favorite bit. The trip to the airport was definitely full of traffic and I had to just relent and realize that if we got in a crash there was nothing I could do about it…but I have a feeling that is going to be a theme of this trip. Haha.

  4. Linda December 10, 2018

    One of our most memorable but least fave trips to an airport was having our cabbie hit a pedestrian on the way! Mark and I were busy in the back seat planning our trip home so neither of us saw anything before the pedestrian flew by my window! All of this…..in San Francisco!

    • rmlawrence7 December 11, 2018 — Post Author

      OH goodness how terrifying! That is definitely one of my fears…

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